Excerpts from Arundo: A Landowner Handbook - Developed By Team Arundo Del Norte
ARUNDO REMOVAL *** ARUNDO DISPOSAL *** REVEGETATION AFTER REMOVAL
This chart summarizes several techniques for removing Arundo. Follow links to see procedures
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Method |
Best Use |
Permits |
Advantages |
Disadvantages |
Timing |
Tools |
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Small patches when immediate action is needed; and/or when there is great concern about herbicide use (esp. near streams or valued plants). |
None |
No herbicide use; Simple tools; Can be done by home- owner or volunteers. Low soil disturbance.
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LEAST EFFECTIVE Canes resprout. Requires repeated cutting. |
Anytime – Best in late summer- early fall when plant energy is transferred to roots |
Loppers; power brush cutter or steel-blade weed whacker. |
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Cut Stump & paint w/ herbicide
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Good for most situations. Can be done near streams or valued plants. |
Non-landowner needs permit from County Agricultural Commissioner to apply herbicide. |
HIGHEST SUCCESS RATE. Less use of herbicide than spraying; Better control of herbicide than spraying. Less chance of herbicide drift or runoff. Low soil disturbance. Can be done by home- owner. Volunteers can help with cutting. |
Requires handling of very strong concentration of a glyphosate-based herbicide. |
Best in late summer- early fall when plant energy is transferred to roots.
May require more than one treatment. |
· Loppers; power brush cutter or steel-blade weed whacker. · Paint brush or wand with sponge applicator · Strong concentration of glyphosate-based herbicide. |
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Large infestations and pure stands that are not mixed with other vegetation.
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Non-landowner needs permit from County Agricultural Commissioner to apply herbicide. |
FAIRLY SUCCESSFUL. Low soil disturbance.
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Can takes 3-5 years of annual herbicide applications. More herbicide required than paint-method above. Risk from drift of spray to non-target plants. |
Cut in spring or summer.
Spray re-sprouts in late summer/early fall when plant energy is transferred to roots.
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· Loppers; power brush cutter or steel-blade weed whacker. · Sprayer w/ directional nozzle · Glyphosate-based herbicide at a foliar spray concentration |
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For small stands with exposed or overhanging root wads. |
If near a water channel, multiple permits required because soil is disturbed. |
No herbicide use. Can be done with volunteer labor. Fairly successful, but plant can regrow from small root fragments. |
Hard manual work or may require backhoe. Significant soil disturbance which can cause erosion |
During dry season to avoid erosion by rain runoff. |
Loppers, brush cutters; Pick & shovel Backhoe for deep roots. |
The technique: This method requires cutting the canes off at the base of the plant and hauling the cuttings out of the streambed for disposal.
Equipment needs: Cutting can be done with loppers, chainsaw, or a power brushcutter. Chainsaws work well for some, but the fibrous stems can clog or derail the chain. A tight, sharp chain is crucial. Loppers are safest.
Personnel requirements: A single person or a group can use this method. Size of infestation will determine the size of the work crew needed. Using power tools requires more space and therefore limits the number of workers in a given area.
Timing: Cutting Arundo can be done at any time of the year. Rain and high water may limit access in the wet season. The best time to cut Arundo is during the growing season.
Side-effects: There are very few side effects with the Cut Only method. Soil disturbance and erosion can be a problem when working on steep slopes or on unstable soils. Because no herbicides are used, there is no time or resources spent on training and herbicide regulatory requirements. Further, there is no risk of herbicide spillage or accidental misuse.
Cost: The financial cost is minimal if performing the work yourself. Hiring outside labor to do the work can be costly, especially since this method will require constant follow-up. The physical and emotional cost is great because the canes grow back so fast and strong, discouraging all but the hardiest volunteers.
Success rate: The Cut Only method has poor results in controlling Arundo. Removing the stalks from the banks can eliminate some spread of the plant downstream. However, the plant will readily regrow from the roots. Without herbicide treatment, cutting is usually a waste of time and labor.
Appropriate use: The Cut Only method is useful on small infestations where there is great concern for herbicide use. It can also be used to prevent further spread of Arundo when there is an immediate concern for a clump collapsing into a stream or to remove canes that have fallen over into the water. (Also, one should not hesitate at any time to harvest the cane when building materials are needed or if your clarinet is in need of a fresh reed!) Remember: No Sharp, Pointy Stumps!
Arundo grows so aggressively that effective eradication efforts usually rely on a systemic herbicide such as glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup® and its aquatic equivalent, Rodeo®). Unlike contact-type herbicides that only kill the above-ground portion of plants, a systemic herbicide is absorbed by plant leaves and stems and is then transported to the plant’s root system where it kills the entire plant, roots and all. When used properly, herbicides used to control Arundo will not result in appreciable residues in soil or water. In the case of glyphosate herbicides, minute residues of the chemical can be measured in soil and water for a short time after the application, but are considered environmentally insignificant. Glyphosate residues are rapidly adsorbed onto organic matter in soil and water and become biologically inactive. Before adsorbtion onto organic matter, glyphosate, even in concentrations much higher than would be used to control Arundo, poses no significant toxicological hazard to wildlife, fish and other aquatic animals. Proper herbicide use, however, is key, to ensure the greatest success in controlling Arundo, minimize herbicide use and costs, and maximize protection for the surrounding environment.
Although glyphosate is the most common herbicide for treating Arundo, this is not a specific recommendation. There are at least four different formulations of glyphosate on the market and each has its different specifications for use. There are also other herbicides approved for use on Arundo. For a written recommendation, contact your County Agricultural Commissioner for the name of a licensed Pest Control Advisor. Read and follow directions for all herbicides.
Herbicide Use and Handling. Pesticide safety training is advised for all applicators. Always read and follow specific label directions and safety precautions. Be extremely careful with open containers of herbicide. Application should be done on dry days to avoid spreading the chemical where it’s not wanted. If you use glyphosate, you must use Rodeo®, not Roundup®, if there is any chance of herbicide reaching the stream, by overspray or drift.
Requirements for Herbicide Applicators. The use of herbicides to remove Arundo on your own property generally does not require permits or other approvals. However, this may depend on the herbicide that will be used, the size of the project area and whether the applicator is the landowner. If you plan to use herbicides to control Arundo, you should contact your county Agricultural Commissioner’s office for more information. If a volunteer group or an individual other than the property owner or a licensed applicator applies herbicide, that person or a representative of the group must have pesticide safety training, obtain a pesticide operator identification number, get a pest control recommendation, obtain a letter of authorization from the landowner, and file a monthly use report with the county Agricultural Commissioner’s office.
Retreatment. If it rains within 24 hours of herbicide application, retreatment is necessary
Cut Stump with Herbicide Application
The technique: This method entails cutting the stalks off and applying undiluted glyphosate or other appropriate herbicide directly to the stump. Sometimes, the canes are first removed by cutting the stalks off 1 to 2 feet from the ground. With the area cleared of canes, access is safer and easier. The stumps are then re-cut to within 2" or 3" from the ground and treated with herbicide. It is important to only re-cut what can be treated within a couple of minutes. The longer the wait, the less likely the cut plant will draw the herbicide down into its roots. Cut the canes off squarely to make herbicide application easier and to avoid dangerous spikes jutting out of the ground. Professional applicators often use pressurized sprayers to treat the cut stumps of large infestations. This is not recommended for homeowners because spraying undiluted herbicide can be wasteful, expensive, and result in unacceptable herbicide runoff. A pressurized sprayer requires experience to operate accurately. It must be cleaned and the rinse-water disposed of properly. A small hand pump sprayer or a sponge dauber is much more efficient for a small-scale project. Arundo: A Landowner Handbook 16
Equipment needs: Loppers, chainsaws, or brushcutters can be used to cut the canes. A paint brush, sponge dauber, or small hand pump sprayer can be used to apply herbicide (see Herbicide Usage and Handling). Use marking dye such as Markit, available at hardware stores, mixed with the herbicide to differentiate treated stems from untreated. A brush or spray-bottle are easily obtained. On larger jobs, a dauber may prevent back pain, since the applicator can stand upright while using it instead of bending over. A dauber can be made by adapting a standard watering wand: Remove the metal screen at the watering end, and replace it with a circular piece of sponge. Use fixtures available at a hardware store to make a tight cap for the handle end. Fill the wand with herbicide. A rubber squeeze-bulb, attached with hose-clamps on the handle end, will give better control of the flow of herbicide. Forestry Suppliers (1-800-647-5368) has a dauber-type device for sale called the Swiper.
Personnel requirements: A large group can do the initial cutting and removal of canes. At least two or three people are needed to re-cut stems and apply the herbicide efficiently. Power tools require more space and therefore limit the number of workers in a given area. One person trained in the use and handling of herbicides is needed to supervise (see Requirements for Herbicide Applicators).
Timing: Cut Stump application can be done throughout the growing season, although effectiveness may be best when herbicide is applied in late summer or early fall before the plants enter dormancy. Application after recutting should be done within 2 minutes. Some eradicators say that herbicide should be applied within 15-30 seconds after cutting, however others have had acceptable results applying herbicide up to 20 minutes after recutting.
Side-effects: There is a risk of spillage when using undiluted herbicide. Exercise caution when handling open containers; avoid carrying them onto the site. Using a sponge dauber poses very little risk to surrounding vegetation. Capped sponge applicator wands are the least likely to spill and more efficient than brushing. There is a slight risk of soil disturbance and erosion when removing the canes by hand.
Cost: Very little herbicide is wasted with this precise application method. Non-target losses are avoided and follow-up is minimal. Property owners can save significantly by doing the work themselves.
Success rate: This method’s effectiveness ranges from 50% to 95% in the first year. Expect complete eradication to take up to 3 to 5 years. The highly variable success rates are due to factors including the herbicide used, weather conditions, the time of year, and the thoroughness of coverage.
Appropriate use: This method can be used in most cases. It is the best method when working in mixed vegetation and near water sources. This method is also ideal in remote or hard to reach areas. Return trips are minimized and it is not necessary to pack in heavy tools. It is appropriate for supervised volunteer groups because it is simple and is safe to work in close proximity.
Cut, Reprout and Spray (Foliar Herbicide Application)
The technique: This method requires removal of the canes, allowing the roots to re-sprout, and following up with foliar sprays.
Equipment needs: (See Cut Only, above, for cutting equipment.) Cutting the canes can be done by hand or power tools depending on the size of infestation. Very large stands of pure Arundo can be removed by experienced contractors with heavy machinery such as flail mowers. (See Herbicide Usage and Handling for spraying equipment.)
Personnel requirements: A single person or a group can use this method, depending on the size of infestation. Use of power tools requires more space and therefore limits the number of workers in a given area. One person trained in the use and handling of herbicides is needed to spray (see Requirements for Herbicide Applicators).
Timing: The best time to cut Arundo to force resprouting is during the spring and summer. The cutting should occur early in the growing season to allow time for resprouting in the same year. Follow-up spray should be scheduled when regrowth is still small and easy to reach, approximately two months after cutting. Foliar spray can be effective throughout Arundo’s growing season, but fall is optimal.
Side-effects: The greatest risk when spraying standing Arundo is the potential for spraying desirable vegetation, particularly if there is wind. To reduce over-spray, tarps can be used to cover desirable vegetation, or willows and other plants that can resprout can be trimmed back. Large equipment can substantially disrupt the soil and damage desirable species and habitat.
Cost: For very large infestations, experienced crews using flail mowers can be costeffective. For smaller infestations, Cut, Resprout, and Spray using hand tools may also use the least amount of materials. However, the labor for multiple follow-up sprays increases the costs.
Success rate: Foliar application has been found to be 50% effective the first year and 75% effective the second year and may take 3 to 5 years for complete eradication. Effectiveness depends on the herbicide mixture used, weather conditions, the time of year, and the amount of leaf coverage.
Appropriate use: This method can be used in most situations where Arundo is not mixed with desirable vegetation. Waiting for resprouts after cutting can be impractical when working in remote areas.
The technique: This method involves digging up the roots and hauling roots and canes out of the creekbed for disposal.
Equipment needs: Shovels and picks for small infestations. If hand digging, the work is easier if you first cut and remove the canes, then address the roots. A backhoe or excavator and grapple can be used for large colonies. In this case, the stems do not have to be cut off first. In fact, the stems can help pull up the rhizome mass intact. Excavating in the streambed is generally not recommended and may require a Streambed Alteration Agreement from the California Department of Fish and Game or a permit from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (see Who to Contact).
Personnel requirements: A single person or a group can use this method, depending on the size of the infestation.
Timing: Digging Arundo can be done at any time of the year. Rain and high water may limit access and reduce bank stability in the wet season.
Side-effects: Digging the roots up disturbs the soil and causes erosion. The soils in the creekbed become vulnerable to being washed away. Roots that were missed or cut during digging are more likely to be uprooted during a high water event and deposited downstream, spreading the infestation. On the other hand, since no herbicide is used, there is no possibility of soil or water contamination and no accidental damage to desirable plants nearby.
Cost: The financial cost is minimal if performing the work yourself. The physical effort of digging it out by hand is great. Hiring a heavy equipment operator to do this work can be costly, especially since this method is slow and access can be difficult. Also, regrading and replanting the disturbed area can add to the cost significantly (See Revegetation).
Success rate: Reports are mixed. Canes will resprout from rhizomes that were missed, or were buried more deeply than the digging. The cost, soil disturbance, and equipment access problems make it an unpopular choice.
Appropriate use: When roots are exposed from erosion and vulnerable to washing downstream, it is appropriate to remove them. It is also acceptable to dig out Arundo roots when the clump is small, on the upper bank and on stable ground.
Removal and Disposal of Arundo Debris
Removing Arundo canes from the immediate work-site is a chore in itself on some sites. A choke chain or rope can be used to tie a bundle of canes before they are cut to prevent them from falling in the creek and to facilitate removal. A winch or a vehicle can be used to pull large bundles up steep slopes. Rope or twine can be used to bundle cut canes to ease hand removal. A tarp can be used to gather up smaller pieces and drag them to a disposal area.
When using a group of volunteers, forming a chain to hand off
Composting: If you have the space and don’t mind the sight of a mound of Arundo canes, just let them sit and rot in place. The canes decompose very slowly. This method is ideal for remote areas. Make sure the pile is stacked above the high water line and out of temptation’s way. A passerby may discover that the canes make great spears and throw them back into the creek.
Chipping: The canes can be chipped on site, out of the creek, with a brush or tree chipper. It can then be hauled and dumped or mulched on site. Arundo is fibrous and can get caught in the cutting blades of lightweight chippers. It will chip better when dry and brittle. A chipper may not be practical in areas that are difficult to access.
Dumping: Hauling and dumping large volumes of Arundo cuttings is time-consuming and can be expensive. Many cities and some counties have programs for pick-up of yard waste. Some disposal companies and dumps do not accept Arundo because it can be difficult to chip. Dumping is appropriate when other options are unavailable or when a dumpster is donated for a general creek cleanup event and the Arundo gets “cleaned up” too.
How Dead is Dead? Arundo rhizomes can dry out for over six months and still start growing vigorously whenever they come in contact with moisture. Cut Arundo stems will usually not sprout unless in contact with water or moist soil. Canes that have been cut and stacked for over one month are generally dead. Stem sections require two nodes to reproduce because leaves and roots will not both grow from the same node. (Nodes are the joint-like rings around the stem.) Therefore, small pieces of stem with no nodes or only one node pose no risk of spreading Arundo.
Revegetation After Arundo Removal
PASSIVE RESTORATION: Areas that are stripped of Arundo may look devastated. If there is no danger of erosion, the surest and cheapest way to restore native riparian vegetation is to let natural succession and flooding bring in appropriate plant material. Leave the site alone for one or two rainy seasons to see how well “passive” restoration will work. In riparian sites, the stream’s high flows will generally carry fresh sediment and new native plants to the lower stream banks naturally. Nearby native vegetation will often fill available spaces. This process is periodic and may take several years to complete.
ACTIVE RESTORATION: Often, natural processes will revegetate the lower part of the bank, but “active” methods are sometimes necessary to revegetate the higher, drier areas with native species such as oak trees, upland shrubs, and native perennial grasses. Keep in mind several considerations when considering whether to do “active” revegetation.
• You may want to postpone revegetation until you have achieved complete Arundo eradication, since it may be difficult to avoid harming desirable plants during followup herbicide treatments.
• If you are downstream of Arundo infestations, or near other invasive riparian plant species such as Himalayan blackberry, tree of heaven, vinca (periwinkle), or ivy, prompt revegetation with natives may be necessary to prevent re-invasion of your site.
• Revegetation costs are extremely variable, depending on the needs of the site, the intensity of planting, size of the area planted, and the labor source. If you’ve decided to actively restore the site, plan your project carefully. Restoration of native plant communities is an art and science unto itself, which cannot be adequately communicated in this Handbook. It is best to err on the side of caution and remember that your site affects everything downstream. Seek advice from experienced people before you act.
• Develop a list of desired plant species.
o Choose fast-growing native species that can flourish on your site. For example, for a privacy screen at the water’s edge, use willow (Salix species) pole plantings. These are easy to establish in moist soils and grow rapidly.
o For the same effect on a high bank, try coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis).
o Don’t plant expensive or labor-intensive species near the waterline, since they may be washed out in their first winter. Use only native species! We already have too much non-native vegetation along our waterways.
o Emphasize your preference for locally native plants to any experts you consult with. Beware that earth-moving or placing any material in the stream may require permit(s); see “Who to Contact” section of Arundo – A Landowner Handbook) Obtaining a permit may require you to communicate your plans in explicit detail and then wait up to several months before proceeding. You may want to avoid activities that require permits.
• To maximize fish and wildlife habitat, your long-term objectives should be to eventually shade the stream, stabilize the ground surface with native plants (not annual grasses), and provide a multi-leveled structure of greenery, from small shrubs to tall trees.
• To avoid wasted time, energy, and money, research the proper timing and techniques for propagating plant material. Plant most species in fall. These sources may provide information or implementation:
o Local chapter or state office of the California Native Plant Society.
o Nurseries specializing in locally native species. • Look for ecological restoration services in the yellow pages listings for Environmental, Conservation and Ecological Organizations, or Environmental and Ecological Services.
o Society for Ecological Restoration, California Chapter (SERCAL), at www.sercal.org or SERCAL, 915 L Street, #C-104, Sacramento, CA 95814, (805) 634-9228.
California Dept. of Fish and Game - Permit Information
Contact People for Contra Costa County
Suzanne Gilmore is the scientist who works in Contra Costa County . She handles all the permit issues prior to enforcement issues. She does pre-permit consultations
Suzanne Gilmore
Environmental Scientist, Habitat Conservation Planning, Department of Fish and Game
P.O. Box 47; Yountville, California 94599
707-944-5536 office
707-944-5563 fax
Sgilmore@dfg.ca.gov
Nicole Koziki is in Enforcement Division - 925-376-1274
Timing –
· Windows of time to work in creek channels depend on the particular channel and what species live in the area. Generally spraying or digging is NOT permitted from Oct 15 to March 15th.
· Generally working in the dry season is preferable to prevent seepage of chemicals or runoff into creeks
· Since they are short-stafffed and have a backlog of applications a rule of thumb is to allow 90 days to get a permit. (Their rules say they need to notify you of receiving the applic. within 30 days and act on it within the additional 60 days. If they don’t meet that 90 day deadline, it’s on them, and at least the applicant has protected themselves by obeying the law. Also the applicant will have the notification reply letter to show any warden.
Jurisdiction:
· CDFG does not have jurisdiction on channels with concrete bottoms. Only channels with natural bottoms.
· However their jurisdiction on natural bottom channels extends from the bottom of the channel up the bank and all the way to the edge of the riparian zone. So this is a larger area than many other agencies.
When permits are needed:
· Each site and each project is unique, so each project needs to be evaluated on its merits.
· Suzanne doesn’t always have time for pre-permit consultations, but tries to be as helpful as possible. When in doubt, fill out a permit application. You can also send her an e-mail with project details (what you are doing, where, size of area, where in relation to waterway, what types of techniques and/or materials are you using.)